Saturday, July 30, 2011

Cruise, Day 4 - Icy Strait Point...

The clouds had found us when we woke up on Monday morning.  We were moored offshore from Icy Strait Point.  There isn't a dock that will accommodate a cruise ship there, so we were tendered ashore in lifeboats.  Only one cruise ship is allowed in at any time.

Icy Strait Point wasn't on the map a few years ago - the name was coined to describe a new, private dock, built to handle cruise-ship traffic near the Tlingit (pronounced "Klingit) city of Hoonah, the largest Tlingit settlement in Alaska, with nearly 1,000 residents.  The private dock is on the site of an historic salmon cannery, built in 1939, which has been converted to small shops selling, thankfully, things made in Alaska!

There is very little in Icy Strait Point - it's more natural and undeveloped than our other stops, with the highlight of this little development being the abundance of sea life and the old growth rain forest.  Grizzly bear sightings are common.

They do, however, have the longest zip-line in the world!  It's a 48 minute bus ride to the top of the mountain, and a 90 second trip down!  We didn't do the zip line, but did take pictures of the screaming people coming down!

We did a Hoonah sight seeing trip, led by a Tlingit native.  Laverne (her English name) had been born and raised right there in Hoonah, and gave us additional background on the clans and clan custom.

The rain began as we were finishing our tour, and by the time we had toured the cannery and small shops, it was raining in earnest!  Time to board the ship and have some lunch!  We enjoyed Icy Strait Point - it was like going back in time, visiting "old Alaska" - except for the gift shops and cruise ship, of course!


Our ship, moored near the dock.  You can see the small boats, "tendering" people to shore

The dock from the beach

And our ship, looking like it's from another time and place!

And another view

The harbor - framed by the fireweed.  The Tlingit people know that summer is coming when the fireweed begins to bloom.  They also know that when the salmon berry bushes fruit, that the salmon won't be far behind.  Very much a culture based on nature

Bryan, in a Tlingit cemetary.  Laverne told us that prior to the Russians coming, all of the dead were cremated, so cemetaries are a relatively new thing for them.

Down town Hoonah

Bryan with a totem pole

Zip liners!!

And here's one, coming in for a landing

A view of the dock with a tender boat, and the kayaks getting ready for a paddle

The cannery no longer cans salmon, but Lee found this little bear going around on the conveyor belt!

A great morning in Icy Strait Point!  Tomorrow is Juneau - maybe the rain will stop?

 

Cruise, Day 3 - Ketchikan...

After a day at sea on Saturday, we woke up on Sunday morning to a beautiful sunny day in Ketchikan!  And we weren't alone!  Also docked in Ketchikan were the Millennium's sister ship, the Infinity, the Disney Wonder and a Crystal cruise ship!  So, this sleepy little port town, population 8,000, exploded with another 8,000 visitors!  We had planned some shore excursions in Ketchikan - the Alaskan Lumberjack Show and a tour of Ketchikan, including the Potlatch Totem Park.

We got off the ship just before 8:00 am, and all of the shops located on the waterfront were open and bustling!  Buses waited to take cruisers on excursions - Ketchikan was all go!!

We were able to walk to the Lumberjack show, and Billie, John and Jo were there as well.  The show was lots of fun, highlighting the many feats that the lumberjacks performed, including audience participation - we were divided into two teams, and there was much booing and cheering going on as the competition progressed!  The kids in the audience enjoyed it as well, as they were given "cookies" - rounds of trees that had been sawn off, and two lucky kids got little chairs as well.  Could just imagine the parents wondering what on earth they were going to do with those rough-hewn chairs on the cruise ship!

After the show, we boarded a bus and headed out to Potlatch Totem Park.  On the way we got a tour of Ketchikan and some history as well from our driver.  We knew that there was a Walmart there, as our waiter and assistant waiter had been talking about heading out there at dinner the night before!

The Potlatch Totem Park was very interesting.  Like most Indians, they had no written language - stories and information were handed down from generation to generation, and totem poles were used to tell stories.  The carvings were pretty amazing - some of them very old, and we got to see a totem pole being carved as well.  The Indians had small houses that they lived in - one for the women and children, and one for the men.  The openings to the houses were very small - you had to crawl in.  When the men were off hunting, the women gathered in their house, and if an intruder tried to crawl in, they were prepared to bash him on the head!  Apparently it worked pretty well.

The houses were carved elaborately, as well.  They used local berries for color, and the results were pretty impressive.  We spent a few hours there, learning about local customs and the stories the totems told.

The word potlatch means "party or celebration".  The different clans gave"potlatches" for each other, and the receiving clan was expected to reciprocate, as giving a potlatch used a lot of the clan's resources.  Apparently there is one Totem of shame in Alaska - for John Seward.  John Seward was successful in buying Alaska from Russia for $7 million.  The local Indians were overjoyed, as Russia had completely wiped out the fur seals, and considered Alaska worthless.  The Indians threw a huge potlatch in John Seward's honor.  However, he never reciprocated, so they carved his Totem of shame.  Important to know the local customs! : )

After the tour we spent some time wandering around town.  The 4 huge cruise ships were pretty impressive in the harbor.  There were many, many float planes - taking off, flying and landing - I think that there are more float plans in Ketchikan than there are cars!  The water ways around the city are very busy!

As we sailed that afternoon, we passed the airport - it's on a separate island, and you take a ferry back and forth to get there.  Some of you may remember the "bridge to nowhere" of Sara Palin fame - they wanted to build a bridge between the two islands.  It didn't happen.

We really enjoyed our warm, sunny stay in Ketchikan.  We sailed that afternoon at 4, and it was a beautiful trip out into the inside passage, headed to Icy Strait Point!


Ketchikan from the ship as we got ready to go into town

The Millennium and the harbor

The small boats in the harbor

The Millennium on the left, with the Disney Wonder in the back ground

The Disney Wonder.  This is Disney's first season in Alaska

Ketchikan!

Our ship at the end of the street

Ketchikan is situated on a hill.  It's called the city on stilts, as most of main street is on stilts over the water.  The roads to houses on the hills are also built on stilts - very interesting!

Creek Street in Ketchikan, which is also built on water

The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show!

The first challenge - chopping the block of wood they were standing on into two pieces - good grief!!

This challenge was tossing a long-handled axe at the target - they were surprisingly accurate!  You can see the axe in the air

Two-person sawing!  They were very fast, and created the "cookies" they gave to the kids in the audience.

More chopping!

Chopping down a portion of the trunk - note the piece of wood that he is standing on - they cut a notch in the wood, and insert a piece of wood to get where they need to be.  That makeshift scaffold was really moving while he was swinging that axe!

Climbing the pole!

And of course, the log roll!  Great fun!

Potlatch Totem Park

This is a current totem being carved and painted.  It's expected to be finished in a year

Clan houses and totem poles

A totem which is also an entrance into a clan house

Totem inside a newly constructed log house

Totems, and a clan house in the background with carving

Some of the older totem poles

And some more, as well as clan houses

This clan house has a grassy roof

Clan house and totem, leading down to the sea

Another story totem

Dugout canoe, with totems and clan houses in the background

And a collection of old cars that seemed strangely out of place....

Float planes!

As we sailed from Ketchikan, there were float plans taking off and landing all around us

The island airport

Crystal cruise ship, Disney Wonder to the left, and the Infinity to the right

A whale!!  We did see whales on the cruise - amazing!!

What a great day!  Now for some relaxing on the deck outside, a leisurely dinner, some entertainment, and we'll wake up in Icy Strait Point tomorrow morning!  We're liking this cruising thing!!


Friday, July 29, 2011

Cruising, Day 2 - The Inside Passage and first formal night

Saturday was a cruising day, up the inside passage.  We were blessed with a gorgeous, sunny day!

Our cruise schedule for the day included a tour of the kitchen, and our first formal night for dinner.  Most cruises have one or two formal nights, which gives us girls a chance to get all dressed up, and which the guys endure!  Formal nights also contribute to the tons of luggage we had, but it was all worth it!

Since it was a cruise day, we had lots of time to relax on the back deck as we sailed the inside passage, and enjoy the beautiful weather and spectacular scenery.  We introduced Billie to Mai Tais, Jo and I got our pedicures, and we were all very relaxed as we enjoyed the day.

About 7:00 we all retired to our staterooms for the "beautification process", then met before dinner for a glass of wine and some photos.  Anyone who knows me well knows that I simply cannot pass up "event" pictures, and we came away with quite a collection of "cruise memories"!


This is Jesus - he won Chef of the Year for Celebrity cruise lines, and led our kitchen tour.

The Celebrity kitchen prepares about 9,000 meals a day!  The kitchens were HUGE and very busy at 10:00 am, as lunch preparation was underway

The master carver, creating amazing fruit and vegetable carvings, as we watched

Some of his creations

Pastry roses

This is the Olympic restaurant.  A 5-star restaurant that was an option to the dining room.  There was a per-person charge to eat there, and we made reservations to have dinner there on the last night of our cruise

Sailing up the inside passage - beautiful blue seas, skies and white clouds - life is good!

More gorgeous scenery

Up the inside passage, from the back of the ship.  Even though it was cloudy, it was still warm

Small islands in the inside passage

The inside passage from the top of the ship

Peter, at the back of the ship, enjoying the beautiful scenery

The wake from the ship, and the inside passage.  It was quite narrow in places!

A walk around the ship - note the red track - three times around the track was 1/2 mile - some of us (Bryan and Billie) walked it every morning!

Mai Tais on the Millennium!

Billie's first Mai Tai - and no, they weren't all hers!

Relaxing on the deck, enjoying the spectacular beauty of the inside passage

Lee, Bryan and Jo

First formal evening - John and Billie

Bryan and Peter

Peter and John

Bryan

Lee and Jo

Pat, Billie and Lee

Saturday night sunset!  What an amazing end to an amazing day!

We were all amazed by the amount of daylight we had as we moved north - the sun was up before 5:00 am, and didn't set till after 10:00!

Tomorrow we wake up in our first port of call - Ketchikan!!